On day three or four I go to the Partagás factory. It's beautiful, man. My Taj Mahal. The only place you can get real cigars is at the factories. And they're expensive. A Cohiba from the factory is $12 — now maybe that's the hoser tourist price. At the Partagás factory, the night watchman comes out wearing his gun. He digs my painting. People put cigars in my pockets. There's a TV set inside the factory, and the people, they're in there watching Fidel doing something. Each Cuban is issued four cigars a month by the government. One day a guy takes me to his house and gets out a suitcase with five boxes of Cohibas. They're fakes. There's a huge industry there in fakes. They're made out of tobacco shavings. They're unsmokable, they're so densely packed. But Cubans just love 'em.

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